First shot at making a weapon

psycosword

psycosword

Novice
Hi! So, this was my first try at making a sword.

3/4" PVC pipe core
5/8" Closed cell padding.
2" open cell on top and bottom (For thrusting and waylay)
44" In total.

Now, the book guide said to make the core 6" shorter then the final length, and I was aiming for 46" (To stay 2" under the max, in case of first timer things!)

I secured the inside of the hand guard with some of the spare/leftover closed cell (so that it's closer to 1-1/4" thick there in the front)

Duct tape all over.

Also, there is step 2 in the main national rulebook, about making some inch long (2 inch long?) parts for the top and bottom? Could anyone be more clear on what this is? I think this step is why I got to 44" and not 46" (Since the core was 40")

Oh, and whee, a picture!

Also I have some cans of black spray plastidip, though I'm holding off until this one passes safety inspection, since first timers usually don't make it through. Though I got some silver and gold paint markers, that I might use to embellish into a Biata sword.

Problems you see? Improvements? Ideas?
 

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It looks sweet! It'll be fairly heavy compared to a lot of Alliance weapons, but aesthetically, it's really good for foam and duct tape. I salute you and your first attempt.
 
Two things I note.

First, your thrusting tips appear to be square. It is a very quick and easy upgrade to trim the corners off that square and make it at least octagonal if not round, which makes it easy to tape the tips to smoothly match the line of the pipe foam. This both looks better and lasts longer, because those square corners are where the tape and foam of your tips will break down first.

Secondly, you have a number of bits of bubbled duct tape. To avoid that in the future, try sticking one long edge down on the sword and gently rolling the blade sideways on a table or other flat surface to smoothly press down the tape.

All in all, not the worst first weapon I've ever seen, make a few dozen more and they'll be awesome!
 
It's generally a good idea to leave up to an inch of foam out past the core, plugging the hole with a bit of closed cell foam and securing it. This gives you an inner cap to protect against your core pushing through the tip on a thrust.

Looks really good for a first time weapon! Did you make sure to put some holes in the open cell tips so that the foam can compress and relax easily?
 
MaxIrons said:
It looks sweet! It'll be fairly heavy compared to a lot of Alliance weapons, but aesthetically, it's really good for foam and duct tape. I salute you and your first attempt.
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Replace the PVC with fiberglass I'm guessing?

Muir said:
Two things I note.

First, your thrusting tips appear to be square. It is a very quick and easy upgrade to trim the corners off that square and make it at least octagonal if not round, which makes it easy to tape the tips to smoothly match the line of the pipe foam. This both looks better and lasts longer, because those square corners are where the tape and foam of your tips will break down first.

Secondly, you have a number of bits of bubbled duct tape. To avoid that in the future, try sticking one long edge down on the sword and gently rolling the blade sideways on a table or other flat surface to smoothly press down the tape.

All in all, not the worst first weapon I've ever seen, make a few dozen more and they'll be awesome!
Click to expand...

Actually, I did try cutting them to octagons (as much as my exacto knife would let me), but it got taped on in squares. I'll retry them!

And for the tape, ooh, good idea. I had to remake the top blade (see below why), and think it came out much much cleaner. though having something that could cut a circle in my foam would be better!

Inaryn said:
It's generally a good idea to leave up to an inch of foam out past the core, plugging the hole with a bit of closed cell foam and securing it. This gives you an inner cap to protect against your core pushing through the tip on a thrust.

Looks really good for a first time weapon! Did you make sure to put some holes in the open cell tips so that the foam can compress and relax easily?
Click to expand...

I talked to one of the guildmasters in denver this morning about the sword, and he said the same. So I cut about 3 inches above the handguard, and removed the entire 'blade'. And remade a new one (I bought tons of extra supplies in case this might happen!), which was about an inch more and packed with more of the 5/8ths foam (scraps) before putting the thrusting tip on top. On the pommel side, I cut under the handguard an inch, moved the pommel foam out, added an inch of foam and then taped it back together again. That end isn't filled like the top side, but being new and going for healer/backpack medic, I'm not really expecting a bunch of waylays.
 
One thing to try right now. Feel your finger around the thrusting tip. If you can push in a way that you feel pipe, then it's probably going to fail, especially because you have designed it to thrust.
The rulebook wants the closed cell foam to extend past the pipe so that the tip is protected by closed cell foam. This is more important than the thrusting tip IMO. I don't know if there's anyway to access the core to cut two inches off the top, but I would try to find a way. Nothing worse than all that work and having the weapon fail.
 
DiodaGoat said:
One thing to try right now. Feel your finger around the thrusting tip. If you can push in a way that you feel pipe, then it's probably going to fail, especially because you have designed it to thrust.
The rulebook wants the closed cell foam to extend past the pipe so that the tip is protected by closed cell foam. This is more important than the thrusting tip IMO. I don't know if there's anyway to access the core to cut two inches off the top, but I would try to find a way. Nothing worse than all that work and having the weapon fail.
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Hah! Actually, if you read my replies above, I fixed that problem by remaking the top blade to be longer, and to cut a 1" section near the bottom and just add 1" more. It means both ends have 3" (2" open and 1" closed)
 
So my 2 cents, Dont leave an inch between your core and the end of closed cell foam. Fulcrums being a thing, the further past the core you leave foam, the less force needed to core the weapon. I leave just enough to be able to cut a round circle out of my closed cell foam and glue in. So in this case 5/8th inch.

I also do layers, typically three 1/2" layers and secure my core to the center while reinforcing the core with heavy duty tape like gaffers tape. Lay the core in the space you cut out of the middle layer, place the gaffers tape over the core and foam, laying it flat and not wrapping. I have never had a weapon core this way.

Also, think about using a stocking or cloth covering instead of duct tape. It helps reduce weight and is way nicer on your opponents skin when you hit them.
 
norman b said:
So my 2 cents, Dont leave an inch between your core and the end of closed cell foam. Fulcrums being a thing, the further past the core you leave foam, the less force needed to core the weapon. I leave just enough to be able to cut a round circle out of my closed cell foam and glue in. So in this case 5/8th inch.

I also do layers, typically three 1/2" layers and secure my core to the center while reinforcing the core with heavy duty tape like gaffers tape. Lay the core in the space you cut out of the middle layer, place the gaffers tape over the core and foam, laying it flat and not wrapping. I have never had a weapon core this way.

Also, think about using a stocking or cloth covering instead of duct tape. It helps reduce weight and is way nicer on your opponents skin when you hit them.
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I...guess I don't really understand what you are getting at? Do you have pictures showing the whole fulcrum and foam deal? And picture of the 1/2" layers. Wait, wait wait, are you taking solid closed cell foam sheets and wrapping them up?
 
Yes I'm talking about foam sheets. Im talking about blue camp mat (first 15 or so weapons were made with this, thanks walmart).

Im talking fulcrums as being the point at which force is applied against the core via the end of the foam. Its the same principle why too long open cell tend to fly off thrusting tips when smacked against opponents. No real illustrations.

I cut three identical layers of the foam (4 if you are using pvc). The middle layer(s) will have the middle cut out to be the exact size of your core (use the core to draw the template to cut) (here i would glue the 2 middle layers together if making it for PVC). After cutting out the core space, I glue the core and the middle layer(s) together and tape along the core from just past the tip to the grip with gaffer tape. Once the glue is dry, Glue the left over two layers on the front and back of the center piece that has the core attached. Press for a few hours with even weight to make sure you get a good bond. Its pretty simple and quick way to make a blade. It makes it look more like a sword too especially if you carve the sides down to edges.

Sorry I dont have picture, I havent used pictures since switching to making latex weapons. And even then, Im not good at stopping work to take pictures. I get focused and just crank out the weapon.
 
norman b said:
Yes I'm talking about foam sheets. Im talking about blue camp mat (first 15 or so weapons were made with this, thanks walmart).

Im talking fulcrums as being the point at which force is applied against the core via the end of the foam. Its the same principle why too long open cell tend to fly off thrusting tips when smacked against opponents. No real illustrations.

I cut three identical layers of the foam (4 if you are using pvc). The middle layer(s) will have the middle cut out to be the exact size of your core (use the core to draw the template to cut) (here i would glue the 2 middle layers together if making it for PVC). After cutting out the core space, I glue the core and the middle layer(s) together and tape along the core from just past the tip to the grip with gaffer tape. Once the glue is dry, Glue the left over two layers on the front and back of the center piece that has the core attached. Press for a few hours with even weight to make sure you get a good bond. Its pretty simple and quick way to make a blade. It makes it look more like a sword too especially if you carve the sides down to edges.
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Ahh, I'm using http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Re...f-Stick-Pipe-Insulation-PI12346PESS/204759081

Already 5/8" thick. I did buy a hot knife to cut foam better, but I'm not convinced that your way would produce a 'less prone to breakage' weapon. Might try the cloth after this even, will need to find a good tutorial, but I bet they have multiple options at hobby lobby I could work with.
 
Sure, I use that for any hafts or pipe weapons I make. Its great. Very easy to work with. I also no longer use blue camp mat as its horrible aesthetic-wise. I was talking about cheap and visually easy to tell edge vs blunt.

I say its less prone to breaking as I'm reinforcing the tips. I know it is because I use to not reinforce it. I use to leave the tips bare and they would break, that's why I say its less prone to breaking. You don't have to but I'm just trying to give you the most life out of the weapon.
 
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