Weapon construction

Yohon

Yohon

Novice
Hello
First off, when I make a boffer weapon I tend to use that round foam that one would place around piping for insulation. Bought at Menards, Ace, Home Depot etc. But I have the blue camp mat that I purchased at the Walmart store. Can this foam mat be used to replace that round piping insulation foam that is seen being used on most weapons? Asumming all rules for weapon construction are being followed (min/max length, min thickness of foam:which may need 2 layers, etc.) as wells as placing the open cell foam thrusting tip where needed. This blue mat foam is a bit more dense but would give the overall weapon a more bladed look. If this makes sence. I have not yet attempted this but was just trying to improve the look of my weapon.
Thanks
Mason Allard
 
Yohon said:
Hello
First off, when I make a boffer weapon I tend to use that round foam that one would place around piping for insulation. Bought at Menards, Ace, Home Depot etc. But I have the blue camp mat that I purchased at the Walmart store. Can this foam mat be used to replace that round piping insulation foam that is seen being used on most weapons? Asumming all rules for weapon construction are being followed (min/max length, min thickness of foam:which may need 2 layers, etc.) as wells as placing the open cell foam thrusting tip where needed. This blue mat foam is a bit more dense but would give the overall weapon a more bladed look. If this makes sence. I have not yet attempted this but was just trying to improve the look of my weapon.
Thanks
Mason Allard
Click to expand...

It is a case by case basis. I have seen bladed hand made latex and plasti-dip weapons pass inspections. There are some tricks with blades also by using craft foam over the blue mat foam. This will help in the impact distribution. Another trick is to leave the 'blade' a bit wider (1/4" or so) so that there is more surface of impact. Also, using fabric over the blade helps.

Getting better foam 2.2# foam is on the better end of the scale while camp pad is around 4#.
 
Thanks, too add on to the first question...
Say I used blue mat foam, made it 4 layers thick (exceeds min thickness for a weapon, covered it in fun foam then cloth) and left at least a 1/4 inch "blade edge". This would fall under the legal way of making a weapon I believe. Assuming this didnt cause people pain; which is what im not wanting to cause.
Second question....
Using that pink construction foam for a shield (legal area etc.) can you use any type of foam around the edge as long as it meets the min thickness? Say, blue camp mat, round pvc pipe foam or even open cell foam?
Thanks again
Mason Allard
 
Honestly Mason - you really want to be having this conversation with your local staff in charge of weapon checks. Usually, there is a specific weapon marshal. Each game will have specifics they expect in terms of safety. Some may go by the book, some may go beyond. Some may be looking for a specific thickness, specific weight range, etc.

Your best bet is to find out from where you plan to play and build accordingly. Example: There is one game I've been to that does not allow latex weapons because the cold can make them rock hard. One game had a specific weight they wanted the weapons under, so some home made and calmacil weapons were out, but others were fine. One game required thrusting tips on everything regardless of type. Another tests each one on a case by case basis - and as long as they're safe, it doesn't matter as long as they meet minimum requirements from the book.

We could give you a million responses on whats fine and all, but it runs the risk of being wrong or off if its not from the staff of your game.

-Porch
Denver
 
Ive made swords with the blue mats before. I havent used them in game so idk about legality, but it does work and it works very nicely.
 
Yohon said:
Thanks, too add on to the first question...
Say I used blue mat foam, made it 4 layers thick (exceeds min thickness for a weapon, covered it in fun foam then cloth) and left at least a 1/4 inch "blade edge". This would fall under the legal way of making a weapon I believe. Assuming this didnt cause people pain; which is what im not wanting to cause.
Second question....
Using that pink construction foam for a shield (legal area etc.) can you use any type of foam around the edge as long as it meets the min thickness? Say, blue camp mat, round pvc pipe foam or even open cell foam?
Thanks again
Mason Allard
Click to expand...

For shields, you can use closed cell foam. It will need to be about as soft as pipe and camp mat foam (give or take). Open cell does not really have the resistance for an edge though.
 
Uh-oh, I've just made three shields, I couldn't find anything in the rulebook regulating how the core must be made, just how thick it should be. Are folks just adding materials to the core for thickness requirements, or did I miss something completely from the rulebook on shield construction. I've got the thickness down, but some of my shields are straight cardboard with thick pipe insulation edges.

Shield 1 core: 6-sheets of corrugated cardboard (technically 2 pieces of 3-sheet corrugated cardboard), heavy and does not flex
Shield 2 core: 3 sheets corrugated cardboard with one sheet of camp foam (for sturdiness), lighter and does not flex
Shield 3 core: 3 sheets corrugated cardboard, no camp foam, VERY light and does not flex.

All shields are rimmed with 5/8" pipe insulation foam and covered/secured tightly with duct tape.

Did I miss something in the rulebook?
 
No you didn't. The guidelines for shields aren't material specific except for the requirement for it not to flex while under attack. If you shields do not flex, even after being used in a severe rainstorm, then they'd pass. I'd be worried about cardboard getting wet and no longer holding up under attack though.
 
You could also use Plastidip which would add waterproofing and be valid covering the pipe foam. Where as it's possible the Rustoleum would be to hard.
 
Heh, playing in the Pacific Northwest means everything must be rain safe. XD Going with Sorin... I'd recommend plastidip over rustoleum greatly. The hydrophobic spray might work as well, but it'd be untested by this one.
 
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